Western women traveling to Kabul will have a rewarding experience when prepared.
Terrorism is more closely associated with Afghanistan than tourism. In 2005, security warnings didn't stop more than 2,000 tourists from visiting the war-torn country. Following are tips for female aide workers, contractors and tourists preparing a trip to Kabul. Women wanting to visit Afghanistan should consider traveling with a group, such as Global Exchange.
Western women are considered a third gender within Afghanistan's male dominated society. Afghan men aren't quite sure how to interact with them, but usually treat Western women with more respect than their country's sisters. Men will shake hands with Western females but not those of Afghan woman. It's common for men to hold hands and show affection towards one another, but a man and woman are never seen holding hands in public.
Prior to the trip. Travelers should ensure their passports are up to date and secure the proper visa. Register with the respective country's State Department to be accounted for within Afghanistan and notified of increased security warnings.
Obtain the proper immunizations against Hepatitis A, Hepatitis B, malaria, rabies and typhoid fever. A booster for tetanus is recommended, too. Visit a doctor at least six weeks prior to departure for medication to be effective and check with the Centers for Disease Control on updated requirements.
Women who are prepared with knowing a little bit of Afghanistan's customs, the Dari language and proper clothing receive the most respect from the Afghan people.
Key words to learn in Dari are:
Hello "salaam"
Thank you "ta-shar-koor"
Goodbye "khuda hafiz"
Learning the days of the week and basic numbers are useful, too.
What to wear. Although not required by the country's law, many Afghan women still wear burquas (a full-bodied covering completely hiding the woman). The rest wear scarves as head coverings. Western women traveling within Kabul should cover their heads out of respect for the culture. A scarf or pashmina in neutral colors are acceptable. Clothing should be loose fitting and not reveal the woman's shape. Tops should extend to the mid-thigh area. Slacks should be cover the ankles. In most situations, jeans are acceptable. Shoes should be sturdy to navigate over Kabul's rough, urban terrain, which includes dirt and rocky roads and uneven sidewalks.
Arriving in Afghanistan. Upon landing in Kabul, women should be wearing proper clothing and head covering. Passing through Kabul International Airport's customs is intimidating. Afghan men push Western women out of the way, as though she's non-existent. Women should be assertive, yet respectful to make their way through the immigration process.
In the small baggage claim area, men with identification (usually around their necks), offer to locate travelers' bags. They expect a nominal tip for their service. Beggars are also within the baggage area and immediately approach Western travelers.
Currency. While the afghani is the country's currency, most retails shops, restaurants and individual vendors prefer being paid in the U.S. Dollar. Crisp, new one dollar bills are ideal.
Sanitation. While walking the Kabul streets, avoid stepping into the open sewers. Carry toilet tissue and hand sanitizer. Eat only fully-cooked vegetables and meat, primarily lamb. Avoid eggs, chicken, fish, uncooked vegetables and eat only peeled fruit. Drink canned soda with a straw and bottled water.
Stay aware. The people of Afghanistan are curious and kind toward Western travelers. It's frequent for Afghans to invite travelers into their homes for tea and conversation. It's common for Westerners to draw a crowd of Afghans, especially those wanting to practice their English. Travelers should maintain awareness and keep alert of the surroundings. If something doesn't seem right, maybe it isn't. Begging is also common and can include war widows, landmine victims and street children. Beggars are aggressive in the tourist area called Chicken Street.
Departing Kabul. Security at Kabul International Airport differs from the Western world. Luggage is hand searched and passengers are body searched prior to reaching the airport terminal. Once reaching the airport, hand luggage is x-rayed and passengers are body searched again. A minimal departure tax must be paid by all passengers.
More in Suite101: Quick Guide to Kabul: Travel Tips for Visiting Afghanistan's Capital.
